The Correct Technique For Belaying

Belaying is an important technique to have when rock climbing. It is a technique used to control the rope so that a falling climber will not fall very far and will be caught by the rope. The belayer is the person in control of the ropes as the climber is ascending the wall or rock. The belayer passes rope through a belay device, which allows the rope to flow freely while the climber is ascending. In the event of a fall, the belay device will lock off the rope to stop the fall.


Proper belaying technique is essential in climbing to ensure safety of the climber, especially a lead climber that is establishing a route. If a climber were to fall, the belayer would be able to hold the entire weight of the climber and to help lower them to an area where they may continue climbing.

Belaying is the act of securing the climber while he/she climbs. The belayer controls the rope during a climb and is there in the event of a fall and to lower the climber. There are three types of belaying in climbing.The belayer must be attentive at all times and feed the rope at an appropriate pace. The belayer must anticipate when the leader needs  the rope slacking or tightened.

In a fall, the climber is not always able to give a warning and the belayer must be ready at all times.
In direct belaying, the load of a fall is transferred to an anchor without the weight being taken by the belayer first. This is common when the belayer is above the climber such as after the leader has reached the summit and the second climber is coming from below.
Whatever anchor is used must be one hundred percent safe. A sling on a solid spike, rock or tree is commonly used. Do not use a tree or rock if its sturdiness is questionable. A friction device such as an Italian hitch is better in a direct belay.

The indirect belay is when the belayer takes the load in the waist but the belayer is supported by the anchors. This method is also used if you attach to the anchors from the back of the harness and belay from the front. This system can be uncomfortable for the belayer as they take the whole load in their waist.
This is commonly used when the anchors are weak.
Most climbers use the semi-direct belay method, but their may be some cases when you need to use a different method. The person belaying should be very comfortable doing so and experienced with the method that is used.